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(u-s:b /Patek Philippe) As a world debut, the Nautilus – Patek Philippe’s interpretation of casual elegance – has been endowed with three complications: a power-reserve indicator, an analog date, and a moon-phase display. To accommodate these added features, the prominent signature dial was fitted in a larger-format steel case, preserving the charisma of the original launched nearly thirty years ago.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus: a classic in form and function

In the mid-1970s, Patek Philippe decided to launch a more rugged men’s wristwatch, but the new timepiece needed an inimitable personality in order to hold its own against famous classic collections like the Calatrava and Golden Ellipse. An inspiration for its design soon emerged: The universal shape of a porthole found on virtually all maritime vessels, even the most luxurious passenger steamships. The classic round window is framed in brass with a solid hinge on one side so it can be bolted to the hull. Opposite the hinge is an equally massive threaded toggle lock used to secure the window against the gasket. To make this shape more attractive for a watch case, Patek Philippe drew eight intersecting circles to create an octagon. Introduced in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus not only looks like a rugged sports watch, but it is built that way. Rather than a traditional three-part case — with a middle, back and bezel —the Nautilus’ heavy-duty steel case is milled from a single block of metal and hermetically sealed with a gasket and bezel, similar to a ship’s hatch, to protect the movement. The Nautilus immediately attracted attention, and its overriding success confirmed that the Geneva workshops, long admired for their elegant timepieces, could find a niche in the sportier watch category. Since then, the Nautilus has established itself as a classic and is one of the most sought-after timepieces at auction.

Nautilus Ref. 3712/1

The original Nautilus (Ref. 3700/1), nicknamed Jumbo, inspired a smaller model (Ref. 3800/1) in 1982 followed by a ladies’ version (Ref. 4700). The new Ref. 3712/1 in steel takes the Nautilus back to its larger proportion, measuring 42 mm wide and 38 mm vertically. It is a mere 8.37 mm thick, which is particularly thin considering the complications added to the movement. The individual links of the steel bracelet are meticulously finished with the middle links mirror polished and the outer links satin-brushed, a technically difficult and time-consuming process. The stainless steel fold-over clasp assures safety and comfort.

Familiar shape with a new face

The dial of Nautilus Ref. 3712/1 is somewhat familiar yet strikingly different. The color graduates from a deep blue in the middle to black at the periphery, and horizontal embossing adds a dimensional accent. The layout of the dial is unmistakably new. A small white hand between 10 and 11 o’clock shows the power reserve. The moon-phase display is located in an aperture at 7 o’clock, surrounded by a ring of numerals to indicate the date. The subsidiary dial for the second hand is between 4 and 5 o’clock. The wide, luminous baton hands and matching hour markers are Nautilus signatures. Even in the darkest night, they make it easy to instantly tell the time.

The manufacture movement caliber 240: self-winding, convenient, trustworthy

The unusually thin 240 PS IRM C LU caliber is celebrated for its timekeeping accuracy. An integrated 22K solid-gold mini-rotor powers the movement. The abbreviation PS in the caliber designation stands for Petite Seconde (small seconds), IRM for Indication de Réserve de Marche (power-reserve indicator), C for Calendrier (calendar), and LU for phases de LUne (moon phases). Despite its small diameter, the mini-rotor relies on the high density of gold to generate enough winding energy to keep the watch running reliably under normal conditions of use. The movement has a power reserve of 38 to 48 hours and runs at a frequency of 3 Hertz (21,600 semi-oscillations per hour).

The first complicated Nautilus

In addition to telling the time, the new Nautilus Ref. 3712/1 features a power-reserve indicator, a moon-phase display and an analog date. These three complications are extremely useful and enhance the overall value of the watch. Because of their ingenious design, the moon-phase and date-display mechanisms require little energy. These periodically advancing displays, based on two identical wheel trains, are synchronized with a lunar cycle and a 24-hour cycle, respectively. The automatic date change is completed in one hour. The moon-phase display is so accurate that it deviates from the true lunar month by only one day in 122 years and 45 days. The date and moon-phase displays can be individually adjusted with two corrector buttons on the side of the case. If these corrections are performed during an automatic date change (around midnight), a refined safety device protects the sensitive switching mechanism from sustaining damage.

In addition, Patek Philippe has designed a new system to unlock the winding stem that replaces a split stem. The addition of a small device allows the crown and winding stem to be disconnected from the movement. At the edge of the dial, a tiny opening in the movement provides access to a small lever that detaches the setting detent holding the winding stem. The stem can be removed and inserted as a whole, allowing the movement to be easily placed in the case from the top.

Perfection in craftsmanship

Despite the three complications and advanced safety mechanisms, the overall height of the 240 PS IRM C LU movement is just 3.98 mm. Its bridges and off-center gold rotor are decorated with Geneva stripes. The plate is engraved with a graceful perlage (machine-turned) pattern and, like all Patek Philippe’s mechanical movements, is hallmarked with the Geneva Seal, the most prestigious official award for horological excellence. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal back.

Enhanced with a contemporary appeal, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3712/1 is another classic from the Geneva workshops.

Autor:  
Patek Philippe 

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